OHVs And RVs , Camping And Survival 2

OHVs And RVs , Camping And Survival

Having lived in southern California until a few years back, I haven’t done a lot of winter RVing but I have been away in the snow more than once. Somehow, at least for most of us “snow camping” just does not have the same charm as enjoying the sunlight and green lawn or beaches, but many people do find it attractive. Your RV can be your mobile ski chalet or hunting lodge — if it’s properly equipped and you also are ready for winter driving. You can go tent or RV camping in the winter.

You have to make the right preparations. RV camping could be more warmer, and comfortable usually, but with the right equipment and clothing tent camping can be fun, safe, and pleasant too. Most RVs manufactured in the united states do not result from the factory equipped for winter use. A couple of do have warmed and enclosed underbellies. Those manufactured in Canada will come from the factory prepared for four-season use. If yours is not ‘winter hardened’ and you want to do some winter camping, you will need to add heat tape to the keeping tanks and revealed plumbing to avoid them from freezing.

Heat tape usually requires 120-volt electricity, so you will have to run you generator while on the road as well as in camp unless you are linked to shore power. However, some high-temperature pads and tape will also focus on 12-volt DC — if you have sufficient battery capacity.

Heating elements draw a lot of current. Some factory-winterized units heat the holding tanks and domestic plumbing using ducts from the furnace, but that kind of following the sale modifications are usually cost prohibitive if they are even possible. Sometimes just adding a 100-watt incandescent lamp to an outdoor compartment will be adequate to provide freeze protection — if you have 120 volt capacity to run it as needed.

Many newer RVs feature double-pane windows, which help reduce heat reduction to maintain a comfortable temperature inside your RV in summer months and winter. For old models, you can apply heat-shrink plastic storm windows (available at hardware stores and home centers). Other easier, more flexible options include reflective foam interior insulating panels, similar to windscreen sun blockers. These can be utilized in the summertime, to keep carefully the high temperature out and in the wintertime to help keep it in.

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Keep the drapes, drapes, or blinds closed as much as possible to help expand reduce heat loss. If you are using your RV a great deal in the wintertime or think it is is difficult to keep it warm, you may try changing the drapes or curtains with heavier, insulated drapes. Drafts. You can loose an astonishing amount of high temperature through small openings around where domestic plumbing and electrical wiring pass through RV walls.

Seal these opportunities with spray foam or silicon caulk. Ordinary foam weatherstripping can frequently be used to reduce drafts around pedals and control wires that pass through the firewall of your automobile. Spray foam can also be used to insulate the inside of exterior cupboard doors and offer some protection for exposed plumbing related, reducing the amount of energy necessary for high temperature tape to do its job.

You may find drafts around doors and windows or even where interior walls meet exterior walls or where ceilings or flooring meet exterior walls. These may be more likely on old units which have been subjected to years of road vibration and twisting of the coach in normal (or abnormal!) use. Careful and judicious use of aerosol foam can seal these breaks if modification of the doors and windows doesn’t solve the problem. Roof vents. Roof vents provide welcome ventilation in warm weather but can be considered a conduit for high-temperature loss in winter.

Heat rises, therefore the warmest air in your RV is likely to be up close to the roof, right where it can get away or be cooled by unprotected roof vents. The plastic or acrylic domes or metallic lids provide little insulation even. Some permanent skylights have double domes that do provide protection better, but ordinary pop-open roofing vents do not.